Appalachia, London N1: ‘The Chicken Is Like Sunday Dinner On Performance Steroids’ – Restaurant Review | Grace Dent On Restaurants

Appalachia, a new restaurant near Old Street in London, has begun serving authentic Appalachian cuisine, marking a rare culinary venture into this regional American food in the UK. The restaurant’s focus on dishes like butter-brined chicken, collard greens, and fried green tomatoes offers London diners a taste of the US South’s mountain region, despite the venue’s unconventional setting in Shoreditch.

The restaurant, led by chef Ali Borer, features a menu inspired by Scots-Irish mountain settlers, including dishes such as pork rinds, chow-chow relish, and pot liquor. The space is a reclaimed saloon-style bar with a downstairs whiskey and cocktail bar called Lowcountry, which serves drinks like banana pudding sazeracs and bacon-fat bourbon cocktails. The menu is seasonally changing, emphasizing traditional preservation techniques like pickling and smoking. Notable dishes include the butter-brined half chicken with miso grits and black pepper gravy, and a fried green tomato salad served with pickled ginger gravy.

While the restaurant’s focus on pork and pig parts may challenge some diners, the menu also offers vegetarian options, such as the fried green tomato salad and hillbilly loaf with cultured apple butter. The chef’s dedication to authenticity is evident in the preparation and presentation, aiming to replicate Appalachian regional cooking, which is largely unknown in London. The venue’s atmosphere is described as more of a well-crafted space than a cozy or traditional dining setting, reflecting its hip, industrial aesthetic.

Why Appalachian Cuisine in London Matters

This restaurant represents a rare culinary experiment in bringing Appalachian regional food to London, highlighting a lesser-known aspect of American culinary history. It offers an authentic experience that contrasts sharply with stereotypical portrayals of Appalachia, emphasizing preservation, resourcefulness, and regional identity. Its success could influence more regional American cuisines gaining recognition abroad, and it signals a broader interest in diverse, culturally specific foods in London’s dynamic dining scene.

London’s Growing Interest in Regional American Food

While London’s food scene is renowned for its global diversity, Appalachian cuisine remains largely unrepresented. The opening of Appalachia in Shoreditch marks a notable departure, as few venues have attempted to serve authentic dishes from this US mountain region. Historically, British understanding of Appalachia has been limited to pop culture stereotypes, but recent culinary ventures aim to challenge those perceptions by offering genuine regional flavors. The chef’s focus on traditional techniques and ingredients aligns with a broader trend of authentic, provenance-driven cooking in London’s restaurant landscape.

Previous attempts at regional American food in the UK have often been limited to barbecue or Southern staples, but Appalachia’s focus on preservation, pig parts, and specific ingredients like collard greens and chow-chow sets it apart. The restaurant’s opening reflects a growing appetite among London diners for diverse and authentic international cuisines, especially those rooted in history and culture.

“Appalachia’s approach to regional cooking emphasizes resourcefulness and preservation, which is rarely seen in London’s current dining scene.”

— an anonymous researcher

What Aspects of the Restaurant’s Authenticity Remain Unverified

It is not yet clear how closely the restaurant’s dishes adhere to traditional Appalachian recipes, as the chef has adapted some elements for a London audience. The extent of regional authenticity and whether the menu accurately reflects Appalachian culinary practices remain to be fully verified through further visits and reviews.

Upcoming Reviews and Potential Expansion Plans

Further reviews from food critics and customer feedback will determine how well the restaurant maintains its authenticity and appeal. If successful, there may be potential for expansion or additional venues focusing on Appalachian or other regional American cuisines in London. Monitoring the restaurant’s reception over the coming months will provide insight into its lasting impact and authenticity.

Key Questions

What makes Appalachia’s menu authentic?

The menu draws on traditional Appalachian techniques such as smoking, pickling, and preserving, with dishes like butter-brined chicken and fried green tomatoes, aiming to reflect regional flavors and practices.

Are there vegetarian options available?

Yes, the menu includes vegetarian dishes such as fried green tomato salad and hillbilly loaf with apple butter, catering to different dietary preferences.

Is the restaurant’s atmosphere authentic to Appalachian culture?

The setting is a reclaimed saloon-style space with industrial decor, more focused on creating a hip, modern vibe than replicating Appalachian interiors, but the food aims to be true to the region’s culinary traditions.

How has the local London audience responded so far?

Initial reactions suggest interest and curiosity, especially for dishes like the fried green tomatoes and butter-brined chicken, though full reviews are still pending.

Could this lead to more Appalachian or regional American restaurants in London?

If the restaurant proves successful and authentic, it could inspire further ventures into regional American cuisines, broadening the UK’s culinary landscape.

Source: Guardian Life